A few blocks from the old Argentinos Juniors stadium, in La Paternal, with its 100-year-old trees and low-slung houses, the traditional game is held among neighbors who maintain the habit of pulling out lounge chairs and hanging out with friends on the sidewalks. The Russo family, Italian immigrants from Calabria, have set up water bottles in this area where time has stood still and where Maradona’s face is repeated on the walls. Chichiro Almost 70 years ago, it was meant to remain forever.
It all started in 1920, just after World War I, when Francesco Russo, aka “El Nono,” crossed the Atlantic Ocean. Armed with a third-class, one-way ticket, he boarded the ship from the Beverello quay in Naples, and during the 17-day journey slept on primitive mattresses on wooden cots and ate little and inadequately. But conditions didn’t matter. Francesco was planning to change his life by betting on the unknown but promising country to which he would soon invite his family. Argentina was a large and rich country.
He arrived with the clothes on his back, but he was not lacking in work ability. At first, he took on various jobs. Later, with the arrival of his wife Maria Rosa, the two entered the field of gastronomy. The idea was to try their luck by cooking a Calabrian dish that they were familiar with.
So they started by renting a small warehouse on San Cristobal Island, and gradually added tables where customers could eat vermouth and typical southern Italian snacks, such as crusty bread drizzled with olive oil, spicy sauce, olives, and a typical Calabrian soppressata. It was a success.
A few years later, the decision was made to move to Floresta, and eventually the Russo family, their children and grandchildren, could settle in a larger location that they would never abandon, at the corner of Camarones and Terrero.
dining room Chichiro Officially founded in 1956 under that name (an affectionate diminution of Francesco), it already had many years of experience in the field, and its trajectory remained intact through several generations of the Russo family.
The aim was to maintain the same ethos as its founder, to offer high quality, abundant home-cooked food and friendly hospitality to its customers. Cacio Russo, the grandson of the pioneer and currently in charge of the establishment, upholds principles steeped in strict tradition. Example: in Chichiro, To find the menu, you don’t have to scan a QR code, just call Cacho. He is a person who will carefully list the dishes of the day and explain them in detail if you ask.
As a general rule, you can’t leave out house food “unless you want to offend,” he jokes. What does that entry consist of? Classic dishes such as homemade salami, provolone cheese, olives and bread are also possible Suddenly at homeall garnished with vermouth reminiscent of its Calabrian roots. There’s more. Cacio is a traditional Italian snack, famous Appetizer, He says he uses spices himself. Choose from sun-dried plum tomatoes seasoned with oil and spices. There’s also a sandwich of roasted peppers, tongue and chard dusted with garlic powder, pallets beans, ciacciate olives, cheese with olive oil and oregano, and pickled artichokes.
They also offer two dishes rarely found on the menus of local restaurants: snails in Bordeaux and double frogs in Provence. However, there are also certain recipes that are kept secret within families, such as snails. Their recommendation is to make it very fresh and serve it with a sauce made with tomatoes and red wine (there is something else, but I won’t reveal it). Another must-see is the frogs imported from Cordoba, Maradona’s favorite food. in Chichiro Served fried Provence style.
Homemade pasta production always took place on-site on Mondays when the dining room was closed.
In the living room, there is an oval table where each person works out their specialties. “ Each Fusillis al Fierito is made with knitting needles, said his grandson, Ernesto Fontes Russo, who serves as the cantina’s unofficial spokesperson. “We also have egg noodles, gnocchi, sorrentino and cannelloni,” he lists. More than 22 types of sauces are available as accompaniments. A classic with tuco and basil pesto, called scarparo here. The other is Principe de Napoli (topped with white sauce, fillet, ham, mozzarella, chicken and fried egg).
Once the pasta was ready, up to nine people sat at the main table, as per Russo tradition. “The family gathered around that table. I always have an image of my grandmother preparing the pasta, giving us orders, and arranging the production. We all worked together,” Ernesto says.
Cacho’s mother, grandmother Esterina Filiomeni, was his soul. Chichiro For many years. She managed recipe preparation from the kitchen. Nothing could be shipped without his consent. The marriage of Doña Esterina to Don Francisco, the son of the immigrant Francesco, created the second generation of the Russo family to take charge of the winery. He died of cardiac arrest at the age of 50, but his wife continued to live unabated. Grandma Estelle, who locals affectionately called “Nona,” remained in the kitchen until she was 83 years old. Despite her absence, the emotional warmth she conveyed continues.
“She had a special relationship with El Diego. He was like her pupil,” Ernesto Russo recalls. Maradona discovered this water bottle when he was playing for Argentina Juniors.;after that, Chichiro It was like a second home for him, where he celebrated his sporting successes and birthdays. “He was a fan of Sorrento – continues Ernesto – and of frogs from Provence. When he went to Naples, he missed the frogs and asked his assistant to freeze them and take them to Italy. The frogs arrived, and a few days later, the Neapolitan cook called the diner and asked for a recipe, because he wanted to make the frogs Estelle had made in a Provencal style.”
The walls of the room are adorned with T-shirts signed by Maradona and other Argentinos Juniors stars. “With love to Chichiro,” says one of the 10 signers.
popularity of Chichiro It has spread over the years. Today, customers come not only from La Paternal but also from other regions. Should add more tables on the sidewalk in the summer. Perhaps its drawing power has to do with the fact that it conveys the same aesthetic, the same taste as when it started. All of our beloved Nona’s skimmers, rolling pins and old flour sifters are on display. They are objects that remember and honor their origins.
in Chichiro The relaxed atmosphere of those days has been preserved. “Our secret, Ernesto’s adventure, is to continue as we started, to offer the same sauces, the same Fierito Fusillis, the same love that Esterina put into her work. All this comes through, and people come to eat and enjoy the friendly attention. Chichilo encapsulates a little of the lively, happy atmosphere of a Calabrian trattoria and the warm atmosphere of a family gathering.”
Shrimps 1901, La Paternal.
Open Wednesday through Friday from 10:30.
Saturday, noon and night. Sunday is lunch only.
(Reservations are not accepted)
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