This is what they say in Barcelona Fell Vermouth, or the same as vermouth time in other parts of Spain. Catalans usually have a trusted vermouth shop where they stop by to drink vermouth, have a tapa, have a chat, and then continue on their way. This ritual was slow to catch on in Mexico City. Time is of the essence in Mexico City, and we avoid breaks, which can turn into endless after-dinner meals. Additionally, many people still think that vermouth is only used to make classic cocktails such as the Negroni or Martini, even though it is a great drink in its own right.
“When we opened, people always asked what vermouth was,” says Bogal Adam Mendoza, co-founder of Oropel, a vermouth shop in Rome Norte. Three years later, this picturesque little cave houses around 70 bottles of vermouth and has become a must-see for lovers of the drink and anyone wanting to learn more about vermouth.
The answer is that vermouth is a wine fortified with a spirit infused with herbs, spices, and even fruit. There are a wide variety of products, including commercially available branded products and many handmade products that can be made at home. The only rule is that it must be prepared with mugwort, the essential ingredient from which it takes its name. How to pronounce absinthe in German vermut And according to historical accounts, it was the Italians who popularized it, but it was the Germans who began to infuse it into wine for medicinal purposes.
Bogar fell in love with vermouth after entering the world of natural wine and was amazed by its variety of flavors. “Sweet, semi-dry, dry, balanced wines, acidic…we have it all. It’s important to find the profile that suits you,” he says. His recommendation: Vermouth has a low alcohol content, is served in a small glass with ice, and is usually accompanied by an orange or olive slice (or both), so don’t be afraid to give it a try and don’t be afraid to get drunk.
The most popular and well-known vermouths in Mexico are Spanish vermouth and red vermouth. Products from Italian commercial brands such as Cinzano and Martini have been part of our water bottles for many years, but French products are also gradually appearing. Generally, vermouth is classified as dry or sweet, and this is usually associated with its color (white is dry, red is sweet). This generalization is unsubstantiated in the face of each vermouth manufacturer’s ingenuity and taste. That is the most beautiful quality of vermouth. It’s locally sourced and sometimes unparalleled. According to Boger, “producers typically use grass that’s around the field.” Therefore, the taste changes depending on who made it, so the first step to loving this drink is to find what you like and keep exploring, or stick with your favorite.
Despite the lack of a designation of origin to bind our hands, there are already people in Mexico who have started making vermouth, and as Boger noted, they deserve more recognition: “I want more light to be shed on Mexican vermouth. I have great friends who make vermouth, and they should make their mark on the world.” spotlight. Plus, there are so many wonderful herbs out there, why not take advantage of them? ”
In Baja California, home to the country’s most important wine-producing region, several years ago Daniela DaCosta founded Salcitrabajos, Silvana Pijoão founded Vermut Negro Pijoão, and Oscar Mancillas founded Vermut Radicante. Back in Mexico City, Carlos Pellicer launched Siempre Vermut during the pandemic lockdown. All of these brands are sold at some bars, restaurants, and wineries.
Nicolas Martín del Campo joins this list with a vermouth created exclusively for La Barra de Al Lado, the liquor store and cannery he founded with his sister, chef Lula Martín del Campo, at the end of 2023. “Me and Lula’s goal was to create a neighborhood bar, so prices should be affordable and gastronomy should be democratized,” says Nico. Their vermouth costs 95 pesos and comes in 4 options. The whites are fresh and balanced, the rosés taste like currants, the oranges have a subtle apricot vibe, and the reds are more caramelized. The latter is Nico’s favorite: “I love it. It’s very Christmassy and very spicy. It has ginger, cardamom, star anise and cinnamon…The first three are made with white wine (white, rosé and orange), and the red one is made with red wine.”
If the base is wine, producers also adjust the distillate used to fortify the vermouth. Grape brandy is the most common, and some people use gin, vodka, or sherry. Nico chose a vodka and combined it with various ingredients until he was able to give the vermouth the desired color and flavor. He recommends starting with white or pink for warmer days. “Or you can go straight to red, especially now with this cold weather.” In addition to filling the liquor store’s shelves with dozens of bottles of imported vermouth, wine, and spirits like tequila and mixes, there’s also a selection of Portuguese and Spanish canned goods that complete the experience with the music playing through the speakers.
For Niko, the most important thing is “to introduce people to the concept of an aperitif, how delicious it is to come for a snack and vermouth, and above all to create a neighborhood.” In a city as vibrant as this one, bars serve to bring people together, especially if they’re neighbors. That is the essence of the Belm Terrier, an invitation to stop and interact.
Along with Oropel and La Barra de Al Lado, he opened Carmel, founded by the Catalan Guillem Iniguez. I missed my Barcelona neighborhood so much that I decided to name my vermouth bar after it and developed the Vermouth de Casa brand, produced in Santa María la Ribera using local ingredients. Similarly, the drink already appears as an option on the menus of some restaurants, especially Spanish restaurants and bars in the capital, such as La Cocina del Bisco, which specializes in Spanish brands. The slow arrival of vermouth makes sense with a pause, no need to press the accelerator. Little by little (little by little in Catalan) Mexicans will fall in love with the frugality of a small glass of vermouth.
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