Cruises ease Belem’s hotel shortage

The 6,000-capacity ship arrived from Europe to provide additional space for foreign delegations gathering in Belem, a city of 1.4 million people, more than half of whom live in favelas. Some guests complained about the small cabin size and the approximately 20 kilometers (45 minutes by bus) distance from the port of Outeiro to the conference venue. Some see this as a unique opportunity.

“For most meetings, we stay in hotels or apartments,” Belen Mokete, a Lesotho forestry official, told AFP as he waited at the port to board a boat for the first time. “We wanted something different,” he says, adding that he hopes to “remember this forever.”

In the months leading up to the conference, Belém’s few hotels were fully booked, so organizers scrambled to find accommodation in private homes, universities and schools. Then board both ships. Prices have soared.

The arrival of MSC Seaview and Costa Diadema required major improvements to the Port of Outeiro, which cost around US$45 million, according to the port authority. Residents celebrated investments in the city’s infrastructure, with bridges built to the port and roads repaved.

But environmental groups are highlighting the irony that major cruise ships, which burn a lot of fuel, emit carbon dioxide and pollute water, will be hosting participants at a conference to save the planet. Some questioned the decision to hold COP30 in Belem.

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President Lula argued that it should be held in the Amazon, which is a powerful symbol of the importance of tropical forests in absorbing carbon dioxide. Apparently frustrated by the lingering doubts, Lula said participants could “sleep under the stars.” Instead, many people will sleep on the water.

“It’s been a good experience,” Jose Santoro, who works in Brazil’s logistics sector, said at the conference. “I’ve never been in one of these before…the bathroom is a little small, but I’m a big person,” he said. “The room is very comfortable, there is hot and cold water, and you can use the internet.”

Several conference participants complained to AFP about accommodation issues and fees that can run into the hundreds of dollars per room. Michel Omer Raibao, from Madagascar’s environment ministry, said the delegation was “relatively satisfied” with the apartment they found after much searching, an hour’s bus ride from the convention center.

“But Brazil has a reason…I think the reason is that Brazil wants to show the Amazon as the lungs of the world,” he added. “There’s something beautiful about it. You don’t get to see the Amazon every day.”

The price of the cruise also proved prohibitive for many, reaching $600 according to the participating delegations, although some cabins were reserved for delegates from poorer countries at lower prices. Brazil announced donations from “non-governmental parties” to fund three free cabins for delegations from low-income countries.

CDP (Para Port Authority) port director Rosandera Barbosa told AFP that Belém has a long-term vision. Due to the expansion of Outeiro Pier, it is now “suitable for receiving cruise ships”. The project is expected to boost tourism and “will leave a huge legacy with increased port operations,” she said.

Barbosa dismissed environmental concerns, saying ships have “technology and mechanisms to manage and control the fuel they use.” For Santro guests, the ship’s bar, restaurant and pool represent a new kind of luxury. However, the casino is closed.